 |
Driving
down Highway 1 along the coast of California rewards us with
some of the most breathtaking
creations
of Mother Nature, especially traveling through Monterey
County in the spring, when the
artichoke fields are in full production. This
tough thistle is quite
attractive. If it weren’t for the buds that
we collect, cook and eat, there would be several
lovely
purple flowers
on each plant.
French immigrants first brought artichokes to the United States
in the early 1800s as the newcomers settled in the Louisiana Territory,
and Samuel de Champlain discovered American Indians growing them
in Cape Cod. The Salinas Valley in Monterey County became the first
area in California to grow chokes in the early 1920s.
Today virtually 100 percent of all artichokes grown
commercially in the United States are grown in
California with 75
percent of that acreage in Monterey County. Other
growing areas
include Santa
Cruz, San Mateo, Santa Barbara and Fresno counties.
Castroville, a small town with a population of
a little more than
5,000 in Monterey, is the self proclaimed “Artichoke Capital of the World” because
three fourths of all California artichokes are grown there. Joe
Carcione suggested in his book, “The Green Grocer,” that
Castroville ought to proclaim itself the “Artichoke Heart
of the world.” The misty, fioggy coastal
climate is just right for these savory thistles.
Large rounded globe variety artichokes come to the market in the
winter and hit heavy in the spring. Minimal quantities of medium-sized
conical shaped chokes are harvested from the same plants throughout
the summer and peak in the fall.
The artichoke is an offshoot of the sunflower family and a native
of the Mediterranean. It is a labor-intensive crop. The fields
are maintained in perennial culture for five to 10 years.
The tops of the plants are cut back well below the soil to stimulate
the development t of new shoots. They are then transplanted in
new fields to grow new plants.
Newer varieties have been developed recently that
are annuals and can be grown from seed. One desert
grower
plants them
in late August
when it is very hot using transplants from Castroville.
The winter chokes are ready for harvest close to
the middle of
January.
Another new variety is Kiss of Burgundy artichokes
developed for warm,
dry weather. This variety is deep purlple in color
and has very thick, meaty leaves, a larger heart
and a sweet
flavor.
It grows
well in both warm, climates and in traditional
cooler coastal artichoke weather. You won’t
find them, in big chain stores, so check the local
independent
stores along with
the farmers
markets.
Artichokes are low in sodium and have only 25 calories per serving.
They are a great source of potassium, calcium, vitamin C and
folic acid and magnesium. The leaves of the choke beneficial
phytochemicals some of which ate are antioxidants, and some of
which, such as cynarin is a compound that is found to encourage
liver bile production that helps the body rid itself of unwanted
cholesterol. So globbing your artichoke leaves with mayonnaise
is akin to shooting yourself in the foot.
So
how do you pick one out and how do you eat this “feathered
pineapple” as Curly Howard described it in one of the
Three Stooges shorts.
When selecting an artichoke, look for large firm, compact and
heavy chokes that are bright in color. Pick them up by the stem.
The tops of the leaves have small thorns that can really get
under your skin.
Many customers cut themselves short when they put artichokes
back on the stand after seeing large thorns. Remember, the larger
the thorn, the larger the heart.
Feel the artichoke from the same stem end. Give it a firm
but gentle squeeze. It should squeaks with the squeeze. If
it is
firm and bulbous, it is a fresh hearty choke. If it feels
flabby and gives easily, forget it, it’s dried out!
Store artichokes in the refrigerator in a plastic bag or in the
vegetable crisper, they should keep for up to a week,
Preparation
I like to cook my artichokes whole, I also like to eat
the stem. Paul Lewis was an old produce man that I
worked with
many artichoke
seasons ago at Fry’s Market in Concord California. He
taught me to cook and eat the stems of the large and jumbo
artichokes. In fact, his wife used to pickle them and call
it “Cardoona”- I’m not Italian so I can’t
tell you what it means. Cardoon is a sister of the artichoke
plant in which the ribs of the plant are eaten so there
is some relation. More importantly is that the Cardoona
was
out of this world!
Boiling artichokes in a pot with about 3 inches of water
is one method of cooking. Add lemon juice and herbs if
desired. A lot
of folks add garlic cloves. It takes about 25 – 40
minutes, depending on size or until petals near the center
pull out
easily.
Steaming is another way. When they are steamed less water is
settled inside and it is easier to use if you are going to puree
or use in other recipes that call for artichokes.
I prefer the pressure cooker. It takes about 15 minutes after
the thing starts clanking and puffing, to fully cook an artichoke.
Okay
I’ve cooked it now how am I going to eat it? Stymie
asked the same question in a Little Rascals short. He was playing
with the leaves trying to flatten them out and they kept popping
back up. As his eyes got big, he asked, “What is this thing?” Spanky
answered and said, “It’s an artichoke. You eat it.” As
Stymie continued to play with it, he finally gave up and said “It
may choke Arty, but it ain’t gonna choke me!”
Well the leaves on a real artichoke won’t pop back up at
you. Remove the leaves one a t a time. Take the leaf from the
top and put it between your teeth. Pull it out and the flesh
of the “choke” is in your mouth giving you a taste
sensation beyond imagination! Some folks like to dip ‘em
in mayonnaise – not wise! Mayonnaise is full of egg yolks
and some brands even have hydrogenated oils (Trans fats). I recommend
a product on the market called *“Veganaise” mixed
with olive oil, lemon juice, or balsamic vinegar and herbs. Continue
to eat the leaves discarding the empty ones until you get to
the center. There, you will find some “fuzz.” Remove
the fuzz and toss it! DO NOT EAT THE FUZZ! You will find
out how a cat feels coughing up a fur ball if you do! Now
you have
reached the heart, the meatiest part of the choke. This can
be eaten right there on the spot or can be used to make a
variety of different recipes. You can cut it up and use it
in salad
or
as a pizza topping. It can be used for quiche or pureed and
used as a pasta topping or dip.
If you are lucky enough to find the baby artichokes, they
can be prepared like the big ones. The only difference is
that
the fuzz is not developed and is edible. That’s Right! You
can eat ‘em like crawfish!
* Veganaise is grape seed oil based and is an egg less and dairy
less sandwich spread made by Follow Your Heart with all natural
and organic ingredients, the flavor is brilliant.
|