Written for Alameda Magazine March - April 2003 Edition
This version unedited.

The tasty spear of spring, for thousands of years it has been cultivated and savored by numerous cultures. Its culinary and medicinal uses are evident in ancient Egypt, and as far back as the first century BC the Romans developed a method of freezing fresh asparagus to enjoy in the off-season. They loaded up chariots in the fields and then, as fast as they could they raced it to the snowline of the Alps where the ATF (Asparagus Task Force in case you were wondering) would stuff it in the snow and there it would stay for six months 'til the Feast of Epicures. Thomas Jefferson even got in on the act seeing that he mentioned it in his experimental gardening book in 1775.

Today Asparagus is grown around the world. European white & purple varieties have become popular here in the Bay Area and can be found in fine restaurants and fresh at upscale food stores. White asparagus is grown under mounds of soil in Spain & the Netherlands. Just as the tips pop out of the soil, they are harvested. The purple asparagus is grown mostly in France. This deep dark purple spear is cut short at about one and a half inches. Specialty growers also grow these varieties right here in the U.S. but cut it a bit longer at six to seven inches in length. Common English and American spears are green. Some varieties have a beautiful red blush on the tips.  Since ancient times "experts" have disagreed as to which has the best flavor.

During the winter months asparagus is imported from the southern hemisphere, New Zealand, Brazil, Argentina, Peru and of course Mexico. It is good but expensive and will not have the same flavor as local asparagus because it loses flavor once it is cut.

The Imperial Valley (California) crop is in full force this time of year. From pencil sized to magic marker sized, from long green to shorter tips, now is the time to get it fresh!  March April and May are the highlight months for California asparagus from Stockton, Tracy and Byron areas.  Stores throughout the next 8 – 10 weeks (weather depending) will run ads and promotions. Washington, Michigan, New, Jersey seasons start in the latter part of the spring, prolonging the overall season.

Years ago wood crates with colorful labels would come in to the Bay Area produce wholesale markets from the local farms filled with many different sizes of asparagus. The nickname for the crop was "grass." As a young teen I remember watching Frank Marchi (my produce mentor) haggle over pricing with the wholesalers at 4:00 AM to get the best deal. I knew at that moment that I had my work cut out for me. Frank was going to put this stuff on ad again! I would tie several dozen 28 lb crates of asparagus into bunches all day long. Today retailers have it made. The grass comes to the market in plastic crates or waxed cardboard boxes filled with pre-banded bunches.

When selecting asparagus in the stores look for spears that have tightly furled tips & firm stalks. Ideal asparagus will be bright green from tip all the way down. At times due to growing conditions, weather, and other acts of Mother Nature, the bottoms of the shoots will be white and woody. This comes with the cream. You can cut them off at home or using a vegetable peeler you can whittle it down to reveal the tender, tasty edible core.

Stay away from flabby grass. Lift the rubber band to see if it has indented into the spears. If it has then they are aged. Other signs of age would be shriveled or slimy stalk ends a sign that it has completely lost its flavor.  If there is any indication of slime or unpleasant odor on the tips, stay away from it. Bring it to the attention of your produce clerk or manager so they can remove it from the stand. Finally, gently squeeze, and I mean gently, squeeze the stalk end of the bunch. If it squeaks it is fresh.

Does size matter? No, it does not. Thick asparagus can be just as tender as pencil-sized asparagus. Cooking times may need to be adjusted, but one is just as good as the other. Some stores offer  "Long Green" & some stores offer tips or both. It is all good as long as it is fresh.

Now you have all the secrets to picking out the perfect bunch of asparagus.

A few years ago scientists at Rutgers University discovered, that extract from the edible part of the asparagus plant demonstrated anti-tumor activity. Compounds found in asparagus shoots irreversibly inhibited the multiplication of leukemia cells by preventing DNA and RNA synthesis. In English, it means that asparagus is darned good for you!
It contributes in helping slow down or preventing tumor growth and restrains leukemia cells from multiplying.  In fact, early American Indians dried asparagus for use later. They also used it for medicine as a diuretic for bladder and kidney problems.

Nutrition in asparagus brings us vitamins A, B2, C, potassium, phosphorus, iron, & other minerals. It is also ideal for those on a low sodium diet. Watching calories? Only 20 per serving.

Whether you like them purple or white, green, thick or thin, asparagus has savored the palates of many generations.

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Recipes

 Asparagus & Brie Pasta

Boil I package of flat noodles.

Angle cut a bunch Approx. 1 lb.  of asparagus washed with butts
trimmed.

Cut 2 large tomatoes into 1/8" chunks.

sauté  in olive oil and butter. First the asparagus and then the
tomatoes.

Add about a tablespoon of garlic or shallots chopped.

And sprinkle to your liking black pepper.

Dice up about ¼ lb of brie with peppercorns

Add the noodles to the veggies and add the Brie

Top with coarsely chopped fresh basil.

Asparagus Aram

Try this with your leftover asparagus:

Marinade last night's grass in your favorite vingairette dressing for an
hour or two. I recommend Brianna's the one with the big artichoke on
the label.

Buy some Hye Rollers. The big flat Armenian cracker bread that is pre- softened. 
Hye – meaning Armenian, Roller- meaning you can roll anything up in
it and make  a sandwich. 

Lay the flat bread out. Smear ½ large ripe avocado on it and spread it around.

Add moderately, some clover sprouts as even as possible.

Add a little over ½ cup of cut gold and red pepper strips.

Juice from ½ lemon.

A sprinkle of lemon pepper and a little smidgen of celery seed.

¼ cup shredded carrots.

½ of a  thinly sliced pickling cucumber.

Add the marinated asparagus, as much as you like!
(Well maybe 10 – 12 spears)

Wrap it up like a sushi roll or a giant burrito, cut into angled sections
about two inches wide.
Arrange them on a plate and garnish with parsley, kale or whatever
greens you like. Add a small bowl of hollandaise sauce dip or a
mixture of olive oil with lemon juice and herbs. 

Asparagus Omelet

Angle cut 5- 6"leftover" cooked asparagus spears into ½' sections.

Crack open 2 Jumbo eggs in a bowl. Using a wire whisk,
  mix them together. add a small sprinkle of flower and mix
it in until all the lumps are out.
  pour the mixture into a buttered frying pan & cook.
  Add shredded cheese to your liking.

Add the asparagus and fold it over.

Take it a few steps further: add some sliced tomatoes, sliced ripe avocado,
pepper, and very last before you fold it over, add some
clover sprouts. Fold in half & serve.