The Palatable Pluot
Dan “the Produce Man”
July 2004 Alameda Magazine
What happens when plums get grafted onto apricot trees
and apricots get grafted onto plum trees? Well, we end
up with Pluots and Apriums. These interspecific complex
hybrid fruits that are part plum and part apricot continue
to climb towards the top of the list in the summer fruit
section of the produce department.
Apriums come to the market in the late spring at the same time as apricots,
they have a slightly fuzzy surface and resemble an apricot more than a plum.
Apriums are more full bodied with higher sugar content, but more of a plum
flesh. Pluots which are in season now through the late summer have a smooth
surface like a plum and resemble a plum more so than an apricot. When ripe,
the flesh is luscious, the juice is abundant and the flavor is as sweet as
Life Savers candy!
After years of cross breeding, some varieties of pluots became available for
commercial market by the late eighties. Other varieties were developed back
in the 1800’s by crossing peaches with apricots and cherries. Also in
the mix are plumcots, peachcots and cherry-plums.
Inquiring minds ask from time to time; what kind of work and research goes
into the making of a new fruit?
Well I’m no botanist or genetic engineer, but Floyd Zaiger is. For well
over 40 years Floyd and his family have been developing various varieties of
peaches,
nectarines, plums and other fruits. In his early days Floyd worked as an apprentice
for Fred Anderson who is known as “the father of the nectarine” and
Anderson had once been an apprentice for Luther Burbank. Floyd was anxious
to finish Burbank’s work on plumcots. It seems Burbank’s plumcots
were small and sour and Floyd wanted to improve them by developing larger sweeter
fruits.
So in a nutshell, various fruit
species are cross bred. In Zaiger’s case new peach
and plum tree root stocks were created and used as grafting
trees.
The grafting trees were then monitored for any fruit that
they might bear.
Most of them didn’t, but the few that did were harvested
for the largest and most flavorful fruits. Their genes
were then used as building blocks. From there tree seedlings
were developed and planted, and again, monitored over several
generations. The best varieties were eventually were released
to contracted growers who grew test blocks of fruit anywhere
from 100 trees for the most conservative grower to 100
acres for growers who are willing to take a risks.
From there taste panels are put together and the fruit
is shopped to every major packer and grocer as well as
the food service industry. Keep in mind that all fruit
that we buy in the stores today has gone through similar
redevelopment over the centuries. It is all done naturally
in the classical sense. There are no fish genes or pest
resistant chemicals added in the process, so don’t
cry “Frankenweed!” when you see pluots at your
local market.
A tremendous amount of time, money,
patience and ambition goes into the process - anywhere
from 12 to 15 years for
each variety. But Zaiger did it, and now he can be called “the
father of the pluot.”
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Over
20 varieties of Pluots are available throughout the summer
fruit season with each variety possessing a different
percentage of plum and apricot parentage as well as variation
in size and color. The most popular Pluot variety is the
Dapple Dandy also known as the dinosaur egg. It is light
red in color with white-red speckles on the surface. The
interior is white with a light red tone. The texture is
succulent, the juice is abundant and the flavor is like
a plum covered in honey. The other three most popular varieties
are: The Flavorella variety which is golden yellow both
on the exterior as well as the interior. One is better
suited eating this variety over the kitchen sink. The Flavor
King is purple skinned with white interior. The Flavor
Queen is a yellow variety both inside and out. All four
of these varieties are extremely juicy and sweet when ripe.
Other varieties include the Flavor Rich, The Flavor Prince
and the Flavorosa which is sweet with a hint of tartness.
They are all are just as good, but just not as widely grown.
Just like peaches, plums and nectarines, pluot varieties
overlap one another throughout the season giving us a lengthy
run of juicy sweetness.

When selecting pluots in the store; look for firm fruit
with a smooth and shiny surface. You may notice a little
dust-like bloom on the fruit. The same thing is found
on grapes and plums and occurs naturally to protect the
fruit from moisture loss and decay.
Avoid fruit with punctures or holes, large soft spots
and shriveling.
Ripen Pluots at home in either a closed paper bag or
on the kitchen counter. The fruit is soft when it gives
in to gentle pressure in the palm of the hand. Pluots
are extra juicy when on the softer side. When the fruit
is at your desired stage of ripeness store it in the
refrigerator. It should last for 3-5 days. Like all fruit,
pluots are free from cholesterol and saturated fats.
They are high in Vitamins A and C and are a good source
of potassium.
Anything that you do with a plum can be done with a pluot. From jams to cobbler,
from sauce to salsa, pluot pie and poultry glaze.
Pluot season runs from May through September, sometimes
stretching into October which we can thank Floyd for
as well. He is not only the father of the pluot, but
he also helped lengthen the summer fruit season by developing
peaches and nectarine varieties that depend on less chill
hours and can be harvested earlier than traditional varieties.
Other fruit on his resume are the White Lady peach, Arctic
Rose nectarine, White Jay nectarine and the recent Royal
Rainier Cherry. On the Horizon: White and red apricots
and cherry varieties that will be available May through
September.
Sources: Phone interview with Leith Zaiger of Zaiger
Genetics, The Packer, Produce Marketing Association
and Garden Compass.
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