July 2003 written for Alameda Magazine -- This version unedited

         Although this years summer fruit crop was was hindered by warm winter weather and a late cool spring it has rewarded us tremendously with a wide variety of peaches, plums and nectarines. These juicy succulent  balls of sweetness are
saturating the market now!  35 states in the U.S. produce peaches. The largest  is California. Washington/Oregon, Georgia, and the Carolinas to name a few of the top producers.

Peaches were first cultivated in ancient China, where they were considered a symbol of long life and immortality. They were  carried by travelers along caravan routes to the Near East and were cultivated in Persia.  The first Spanish explorers brought the peach to the New World and as early as 1600, peaches were found in Mexico. They made
their way to California via Spanish Missionaries  in the late 1700s.

Now I could go through a long litany of varieties and their time span on the market throughout the season, but it would probably put you to sleep. So I will give you my top recommendations. The commercial varieties on the market right now (or at least as of this writing) are the Suncrest, Elegant Lady, Zee Lady and the O'Henry. These are some of the most popular yellow fleshed varieties.  All have the bite, the sugar,  and the juice that can bring about lost memories.   Other varieties to hit the market will be the Ryan Sun, September Sun,  and the Tra Zee. All of which are yellow fleshed with red blush.  Red seems to attract consumer, but some of the best tasting
  fruit is yellow. The Carnival and the Fairtime varieties are low in blush but very sweet and juicy. Don't pass them up.  Other old varieties and proprietor varieties can be found at the farmers markets. In the Bay Area look for fruit from Honeycrisp Farms and organic fruit from Frog Hollow Farm

The season winds down in October with the ever famous Last Chance(Sprague) variety and the Autumn Rose. Peak season peaches are always the best in my book, but these later varieties are a real treat as they have only hit the market in recent years, giving us a longer season.The only difference is that they are better eaten firm rather than with a break. 

There are several varieties in between all of the ones that I mentioned and I urge you to try them all. In some cases you won't have a choice. It just depends on what you local produce person has brought in for the day.

Then of course there are your local small growers. Little farms with little orchards and roadside stands. Every peach producing state has their share of them. Sometimes the varieties are "lost varieties". Meaning that they are varieties that the big growers have stopped producing for various reasons. They probably don't ship well and bruise
easily or only a few orchards grew them years ago and those orchards are now gone. most likely lost in the miasma of urban development. This fruit is usually ripened all on the trees. It is also usually outstanding in flavor and very juicy Take advantage of these varieties, they may not be around next year. This is the case with many different fruits and vegetables. It is unfortunate that agriculture is slowly disappearing  and paper mache, cardboard stucco houses with walls around the neighborhoods that all look the same are replacing them.

White Fleshe Varieties

For several years we have enjoyed the Babcock as the white flesh variety. We waited patiently until the middle of June to once again experience the sweetest peach available. And then, A few weeks later it would be gone. Leaving us salivating 'til the next year. Well folks, no longer do we have a short window for white flesh peaches and nectarines.

California growers have worked hard to develop newer varieties. White flesh peaches are available throughout the stone fruit summer season beginning in May with the Sugar May  variety then in June with the Babcock and the White Lady then the Sugar Lady,  In July we have the Sugar Giant, Snow Giant and then at the end of August we have the September Snow. There are other varieties out there, but these  are the main players.

So what makes a white flesh peach taste so good?  According to the California Tree Fruit Agreement the acid levels of their trademarked SUMMERWHITE®. varieties of peaches and nectarines remains constant during ripening process, resulting in little change to the acid/sugar ratio of the fruit. When harvested the fruit will feel hard to the touch: but if eaten,  SUMMERWHITE®   varieties will have the same sweetness as when they soften. In other words Lower acid than the yellow varieties, sweeter because there is not enough acid in the fruit to get in the way of the sugar. The flesh is not as dense as the yellow varieties and breaks down faster. Especially when cooking due to the higher sugar content, you will have to cut back on the amount of sugar that you add to your recipe. I like all peaches and nectarines. They both are a real treat throughout the season.

What is the difference between a peach and a nectarine? Is there a difference? Is a nectarine a cross between a peach and a plum? No, not at all. A nectarine is it's own fruit.  No one knows for sure which came first, the nectarine or the peach, but one of them or actually  both originated in China. In fact people claim big differences between the two, but the only important difference is that nectarines have smooth skins and peaches are fuzzy. They come from identical trees. Nectarines often originate from peach seeds and peaches from nectarine seeds.

Most of America's nectarines are grown in the central valley of California from Yuba City to Bakersfield with 49 percent of the state's production in Fresno. Until the turn of this century, all nectarines had white flesh. Plant breeders developed a yellow fleshed  nectarine to improve it's shipping and handling.

Some of the popular yellow fleshed varieties include the Fantasia a free stone variety, The Red Jim, and the July Red. Other white varieties include Arctic Rose, Arctic Queen, and the Ruby Pearl.

California grows  53 varieties of white peaches and 41 varieties of white nectarines. These numbers do not include the small specialty orchards.

Selection.

Do you want a ripe piece of fruit ready to eat now? Find fruit that has a good give to it.  Place the fruit in the palm of your hand and give it a gentle squeeze. Don't rolf it! That will just get your produce person a little ticked off at you. Just a gentle squeeze will do. If the fruit gives in to gentle pressure, it is ready to eat.

If you want fruit to last a week or a few days, select the amount that you want ripe as described above. Then select some firm fruit. Avoid fruit that is green around the stem area. Try to get full colored fruit, but firm. Place this fruit in a paper bag at home and it will ripen in a few days. Fully ripe fruit will hold up just fine in the refrigerator. Do not place firm fruit in the refrigerator it will not ripen properly.

Many growers pack fruit to a "well mature" standard. This is the fruit that is picked and packed firm, but fully mature. Other growers pack what is called "tree ripe" standard. This fruit is picked when it is still mostly firm, but fully ripe. Tree ripe fruit is great, I'm happy to see it picked and packed that way.  

California Summer Fruits

PAN-SEARED CHILEAN SEA BASS WITH SUMMERWHITETM PEACH SALSA

2 cups (l lb.) Fresh, ripe SUMMERWHITE

California peaches, pitted and diced

1/4 cup Minced scallions

1/2 cup Cilantro, chopped

To taste Jalapeno chiles; seeded, de veined and minced.

To taste Superfine sugar                                   

To taste Salt and pepper

1/4 cup Fresh lime juice

1 / 2 tsp. Five-spice powder

2 tbsps. Safflower oil  4 (1-1 / 2 lbs.) Chilean sea bass steaks; 6  ounces each, skinned and boned

Cilantro sprigs for garnish Lime wedges for garnish.

Salsa

 Combine diced peaches, scallions, cilantro, chiles, sugar, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Mix well. Set aside for at least one hour at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator. Mix in lime juice before serving.

Fish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix five-spice powder with oil and brush onto both sides of steaks. Heat large saute pan over high heat until it begins to smoke. Sear sea bass until golden brown on both sides. Finish cooking to desired doneness in the oven.

To serve, place one steak on each of four plates. Divide salsa evenly and spoon over and along side. Garnish with cilantro sprigs and lime wedges. Serves four.

Nutrition facts for Chilean sea bass with SUMMERWHITE peach salsa:

330 calories (35 percent from fat), 14 g. fat (2 g. saturated fat), 136 mg. cholesterol,  129 mg. sodium, 15 g. carbohydrates, 2 g. fiber, 42 g. protein. Daily value: 10 percent,  vitamin A, 33 percent vitamin C, 16 percent calcium, 17 percent iron.

Nutrition facts for SUMMERWHITE peach salsa, 57 calories (2 percent from fat); <1 g. total fat, o mg. cholesterol, <1 mg. sodium, 15 g. carbohydrates, 2 g. fiber, 1 g. protein. @l value: 4 percent vitamin A, 33 percent vitamin C, 1 percent calcium, 1 percent iron.

Roy Harland
Harland's Restaurant
Fresno, California