Is that a good enough hint that the mango season is upon us? It should be, from the stacks and stacks and multiple pallets of these luscious tropical treats that call the produce market their temporary home.

Mangos, which originated in Southeast Asia, most probably India, have been cultivated for at least 4,000 years. The fruit of a towering tropical tree, mangos rank only behind bananas and coconuts in terms of worldwide consumption. On the local level think eucalyptus trees with fruit. That's how common they are.

Up until a dozen or so years ago, mangos were little more than a produce curiosity that were mainly available in local ethnic stores. But since the early '80's U.S. consumption has increased dramatically.

According to some Department of Ag stats, per capita consumption of 'dem mango has increased from .15 pounds in 1977, to 1.50 pounds in 1997. That ain 't too shabby for a fruit that many folks still don't know how to open.

There is probably one key factor that has fueled this mango madness. They taste so gooooood!! Oh yes, Produce Profilers, every ripe (key word here) mango has an almost un describable taste. But I'll give it a whirl.

The texture of the yellow/orange flesh is smooth, soft and creamy, like fruit flavored custard. The flavor is sweet and JUICY with a pleasant aromatic spiciness. (Oh Mama, mango madness is setting in!! My lips be smackin'!)

The flavor is not quirky, or hard to get used to. Most any kid (like my little bean sprout, Sarah Bella) sloshing in mango juice will tell you, "More mango, please!"

There are mucho many kinds of mangos grown all over the world in all shapes and sizes. The most common ones we see around here are grown in Mexico namely the Haden, Tommy Atkins, and a newer variety called the ataulfo or any other half dozen monikers.

The most popular one is the Haden. Like all mangos it starts life green, but turns yellow/orange when ripe. The shape is quite plump and the flavor is very good.

The Tommy Atkins, (someone remind me to inquire as to WHO is Tommy Atkins. I've been curious for years and never remember to ask!) is a bit more round in shape and with a deeper crimson color and shades of dark green. The flavor doesn't quite match the Haden and the flesh can also be a bit more fibrous.

The ataulfo goes by any of the following names; Manila, (a generic produce term), honey, honey Manila, or Champagne. This mango is smaller, flatter and more yellow in color, without a red blush, than the beefier types. It is VERY creamy is texture, with just a touch of acid to balance out the sweetness. A great flavored fruit. Oh. It will usually have a bit larger price tag.

This variety peaks in production earlier than the others and is currently receiving more promotional push by the Mango Movers Association, so you'll see it featured now.

(Just to clarify. Mangos have no promotional board or association. I just made up the name "Mango Movers Association" because they have not made one up themselves.)

If you have questions as to which variety is offered at your local produce palace, check with a clerk. If they don't know, check the markings on the shipping box, that will solve the mystery.

A ripe mango will "give" to a gentle palm squeeze. An aromatic fragrance at the stem end is another ripeness indication. A red color to the skin is nothing more than a sunburn and is NO indication of ripeness. What you look for is the burnt orange color of the skin.

Some things to watch out for ... some wrinkling, and a few brown sugar speckles is OK. Major shriveling or any black spots is a mango no-no. If you run across a sickly green/ gray specimen, pick another. It will rot before it properly ripens.

So now that you have become a mango maniac, how do you get to the MEAT! Simple. Stand the fruit on its tip with the stem facing in a heavenly direction, and the narrow side facing you. Most mango will have a "bump" on this flat side, face it toward you. The butchering lesson which follows, is to avoid the flat, fibrous, elongated pit in the center.

At the stem, cut straight down, and maneuver around the pit with your knife. You should be left with two shallow halves, a center with the pit inside, encircled with a band of skin, and all of your fingers still attached to your hand. (If you have failed in this step, either start over or dial 911.)

Next, score the flesh of each half into cubes and push it inside out so the cubes pop out. Then just cut off the cubes. After peeling the band of skin from the center, slice away the flesh and suck the pit of every mango morsel. This is a treat akin to licking the frosting off the mixing beaters!

Mangos taste fantastic just out of a bowl mixed with yogurt. They can also be pureed, then mixed with ice cream, a banana and made into a smoothie. Their sweet spiciness also lends themselves well to sauces for grilled chicken. Just add a touch of lime, jalape-o pepper, and garlic. Chilling seems to bring out the flavor a bit more as well.

They are very high in vitamin A and beta carotene. The current Mexican season runs from about April through August, with June and July producing 'mo, way 'mo 'dem mango.

Good news on the organic front is that we see more available every year. One problem is that sometimes conventionally grown fruit gets so affordable, that it is tough to get the organic price premium. But the organic market is moving forward.

So go mangia some mangoooooo!!